Retinol is the ‘active’ form of fat-soluble Vitamin A. It is a type of retinoid, which is a class of compounds that includes retinol, retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, and retinyl esters. Vitamin A is required for a number of biological processes including embryo development, for night vision, and low light vision as well as cell differentiation. Vitamin A is primarily stored in the body (especially in the liver) as retinol or retinyl esters.
Retinoid is a catch-all term or ‘umbrella’ term that encompasses the Vitamin A derivatives: Retinoic Acid, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Retinyl Palmitate, and other Retinyl esters.
Retinoic acid (All-trans Retinoic acid) is the most potent form of retinoid and is a key Vitamin A derivative that mediates various signal pathways for growth and development. Retinoic acid works by binding to the Retinoic acid receptor. Both Retinol and Retinaldehyde need to convert to Retinoic Acid before they can bind to the Retinoic Acid receptor.
Retinol is two conversion steps away from Retinoic Acid.
Retinaldehyde or Retinal is one conversion step away from Retinoic Acid.
Retinal vs Retinol
Retinal or Retinaldehyde is also a retinoid. While Retinol requires two conversations (Retinol -> Retinaldehyde and then Retinaldehyde -> Retinoic acid), Retinal is just one enzymatic conversion step away from Retinoic acid. Therefore it is purported that Retinal is possibly faster acting and more efficient than retinol. Studies have shown that Retinal also very effectively increases epidermal thickness and keratinocyte proliferation without the irritation associated with retinoic acid (Mukerjee et al. 2006, Kong et al. 2015). Studies comparing .05% Retinaldehyde with .05% Retinoic acid have reported that both retinaldehyde and retinoic acid were equally effective in reducing wrinkles and skin roughness (Creidi et al. 1999).
How to apply Retinol to Skin?
The general recommendation is to apply retinoids to clean, dry skin. However, with the new, innovative formulations with unique delivery systems, we would recommend reading each brand’s recommendation. For example, we would recommend applying gentle retinol oils on hydrated not dry skin (after a mist and essence).
Retinol for Sensitive Skin
One of the most important steps before (or while) incorporating actives into your skincare, is to ensure that your skin barrier is strong.
If you think your skin is newly sensitive, it is possible that it is ‘sensitized’ by the overuse of actives or exfoliation. So if you suspect your skin is sensitive I would recommend focussing on supporting your skin barrier with formulations containing ceramides and fatty acids, before introducing actives like retinol into your skincare routine. You will find that the same active that would usually feel gentle on your skin might feel ‘too strong’ when your skin has a damaged barrier.
One of the gentlest retinoids we have found is the Votary Intense Recovery oil with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid).
Does Retinol help with Hyperpigmentation?
Yes! Hyperpigmentation is a complex concern and requires multi-step approach. A combination of retinoid, gentle exfoliating serum, tyrosinase inhibitor serum and sunscreen is needed to correct pigmentation on skin.
